I know, I know, another grilling article. You’d think I’d be done by now and honestly, I was planning to be. Just one more and that was it. But then I was out back, giving my old Monument grill a long-overdue spring clean-up, and it hit me. I remembered the time I completely ruined one of my old grills by cleaning it the wrong way. I clogged the burners,  ruined them, and it was a mess. So I figured one more article on how to clean your grill after its winter rest.

To be fair, I leave my grills outside all year long, no covers, no shelter, just out there in the wild. So when spring rolls around, they look like they’ve been through battle. But over the years, I’ve figured out how to bring them back to life and ready for another summer gilling season. So before you fire yours up, here’s a no-BS guide to getting your grill clean, safe, and ready for action… without making the same mistakes I did.

Step 1: Do a Full Inspection First

Before you start scrubbing or spraying anything down, take a few minutes to give your grill a proper once-over. I like to think of this step as a grill health check, you’re not cleaning yet, just diagnosing. Pop the lid, open the cabinet if it has one, and take a close look at what you’re working with.

Start with the inside. If you’re like me and leave your grill outside without a cover, there’s a good chance you’ll find rust on the grates, maybe even on the burners or inside the firebox. Light surface rust isn’t the end of the world, but if things are flaking or falling apart, you might need to replace a few parts.

Next, look for spider webs, nests, or anything weird tucked inside, especially around the burner tubes. It’s surprisingly common, especially in propane grills, for spiders or bugs to block gas flow. I’ve also had the not-so-pleasant experience of finding mouse droppings or chewed insulation after a long winter. But it’s better to find it now than while preheating for burgers.

Don’t forget to check the gas lines and wires. On a gas grill, make sure the hose isn’t cracked and that the regulator still feels snug. Look around the ignition button too; if there are loose wires or corrosion, it might be time to repair or replace the igniter.

This step takes five minutes, tops, but it can save you a ton of frustration (and possibly an accidental flare-up). Once everything checks out, you’re cleared to move on to the fun part: deep cleaning the grates.

Step 2: Deep Clean the Grates (The Right Way)

Let’s be real, if your grill’s been sitting all winter, the grates probably look like something out of a horror movie. That’s okay. We can fix it. But here’s the key: don’t go at them like you’re sanding a deck. The wrong method (or the wrong tool) can damage your grates, especially if they’re porcelain-coated or cast iron, trust me, I found out the hard way.

Start by removing the grates and knocking off any loose debris with a stiff nylon or brass-bristle grill brush, never steel wire. Not only can steel damage the surface, but those bristles can break off and end up in your food later. If things are really caked on, soak the grates in warm, soapy water for 20–30 minutes, then scrub gently with a grill-safe pad or sponge.  I take mine off and use a power washer.

For cast iron grates, dry them completely afterward and wipe on a thin layer of cooking oil to prevent rust. Stainless grates? You can go a little harder, but still avoid anything too abrasive.  I use Barkeeper’s Friend on stainless steel and it works great.  For porcelain-coated? Treat them like nonstick cookware—gentle is the name of the game.

If your grates are beyond saving, pitted, flaking, or warped, it might be time to replace them. But if they’re still solid, a good clean will bring them back to life and help your food taste like grilled meat, not last summer’s leftovers.

Step 3: Clean the Burners, Tubes & Drip Trays

This is where the real performance of your grill lives and it’s often the dirtiest, most ignored area. The burners and drip trays do all the behind-the-scenes work, and after sitting all winter, they’re usually full of gunk, grease, rust, or worse.

Start with the burners. If you have a gas grill, pull them out carefully and look for clogs, rust, or spider webs—yes, spiders love burner tubes. A toothpick, small brush, or compressed air can help clear out the ports. Make sure the flame holes are clean and not blocked, or you’ll get uneven heating or flare-ups.

Next up: drip trays. Most grills have a removable tray or pan beneath the burners that catches grease and debris. These get nasty fast. Pull it out, dump anything solid, and soak it in warm, soapy water. If it’s lined with foil or has a disposable pan, now’s the time to replace it.  I have forgotten to replace mine and when a little water gets in there, it’s nasty.

While you’re in there, it’s not a bad idea to scrape out the bottom of the firebox. Just use a plastic scraper or putty knife and get all the flaky carbon and old food out. Trust me your grill will breathe better, and your food will taste cleaner.

Also check the Flavor bars or the bars above the burners.  I know they usually last for a long time, but if I see rust, I replace mine.  You can still use them but it’s just a thing I like to do.

Once the insides are clear and the burners are back in place, you’re on your way to a grill that not only looks better but cooks better, too.

Step 4: Don’t Forget the Outside

We spend so much time scrubbing the inside of our grills that the outside ends up looking like it just returned from a camping trip. But if you want your grill to last and look good doing it, you’ve got to give the exterior some love too.

Start with a damp cloth and a mild soapy solution to wipe down the lid, shelves, and control panel. For stainless steel grills, use a soft cloth and go with the grain, no scouring pads. If you’ve got years of buildup, a little white vinegar mixed with water can cut through grease without damaging the finish. Just avoid harsh chemicals or oven cleaners, they’ll ruin the look and may even damage painted or coated surfaces.

Check your knobs, ignition button, and thermometer, too. Make sure everything turns smoothly and hasn’t gotten brittle from cold weather. And if your grill has side tables or a cabinet, now’s a good time to clear them out and give them a quick wipe as well.

You don’t have to do this, but after I clean everything on the grill, I light it up and let it burn for 15 minutes.

What Not To Do

Here is a list of mistakes you don’t want to make that can turn a simple clean-up into a costly replacement.

Don’t use a wire brush with loose bristles. Those cheap steel brushes can shed tiny metal pieces that end up in your food, and trust me, no one wants to bite into a burger and end up in urgent care. Stick with a nylon bristle brush or a brass-bristled one that won’t damage your grates or your dinner.

Don’t use oven cleaner. It might sound like a good idea, but those harsh chemicals can corrode finishes, especially on stainless steel or porcelain coatings. Plus, they leave behind residues that can mess with your food’s flavor.

Don’t pressure wash the inside. Blasting the inside of your grill might seem efficient, but it can force water into burner ports, wiring, or insulation – setting you up for rust, mold, or worse. Save the pressure washer for the driveway.

Don’t forget to reconnect the gas line. Seriously. If you disconnected anything to clean, double-check your connections before you light up. A loose hose or regulator can turn that first cookout into a fire drill.

Wrap Up

Giving your grill a proper clean after a long winter isn’t just about looks, it’s about performance and extending its life. A little time now saves you from uneven heat, flare-ups, mystery smells, or the dreaded “why won’t this thing light?”.

I get it. Cleaning your grill isn’t exactly the highlight of Spring, but if you follow the steps above, you’ll be grilling with confidence in no time.

Or, if you’re feeling like skipping all the mess altogether, there’s always the other option: buy yourself a shiny new grill and pretend this one never happened.

The post How to Clean Your Grill After a Long Winter (Without Ruining It) appeared first on Tools In Action - Power Tool Reviews.

When it comes to snow blowers, most people snow blower maintenance happens at the beginning and/or end of the winter season. This is fine for mild winters, but during extreme winter seasons or areas with excessive snowfall this is not enough. Extreme winter weather speeds up wear and tear, weakens snow blower performance, and can even decrease its lifespan. So, if you have already used your snowblower 5-10 times this season, we recommend mid-season snow blower maintenance to keep your snow blower in top condition.

Here are 6 things to check or replace on your snow blower to keep it performing strong all winter long. This list is helpful whether you have a gas or electric snow blower, but some of these snow blower maintenance tips are exclusive to gas machines.

Before You Start

There are two steps you need to do before you start any snow blower maintenance, or any OPE, to prevent injury to yourself, or damage to your machine.

Consult your snow blowers manual before you attempt any sort of maintenance make sure you are doing it in a safe manner and according to the manufacturer’s directions. If you are not comfortable doing it by yourself either have a friend or neighbor with small engine knowledge assist you, or take it into a small engine repair shop to have them give the snow blower a look over.

Your owner’s manual may even state the manufacturer’s tune-up recommendations.

Remove the power source before attempting any kind of maintenance to prevent injuries from accidental engine starts. For a gas snow blower you want to remove the spark plug, and for an electric snow blower you’ll want to either remove the battery or unplug your snow blower.

When finished plug the spark plug back in or you will have a hard time starting the snow blower the next time you need it. For electric snow blowers, just put the battery back in or plug your snow blower.

1. Check Your Oil

The first few tips are exclusive to gas snow blowers. When it comes to oil there is no single set recommendation. It’s best to start with the snow blower manufacturer’s recommendation. These are usually based on hours of use, but it’s also important to check the amount and quality of your snow blower’s engine oil.

Check to make sure your small engine isn’t running low on engine oil, and also if the engine oil is looking dark and dirty. If so, then it’s time to either add or change the oil.

I know it is not fun changing oil in frigid temps, but if you can find a day with decent weather it’s a quick thing you can do and one of the most important things to prolong the life of the unit. While you are changing the oil consult your owner’s manual on how to change the oil, what type, weight and amount of oil to fill the motor with.

2. Check Your Gas

Generally, if you are using your gas snow blower a lot then you are regularly putting fresh gas in it. However, if it’s been more than 30 days you might want to freshen up your tank with new gas.

If your snow blower is underperforming then may want to treat your gas with a fuel stabilizer. Bad gas causes most starting and running issues with small engines.

3. Clean Your Carburetor

Your carburetor has a direct impact on the gas in your snow blower. For regular maintenance you can add carburetor cleaner to your gas tank. However, if you’ve noticed recently that your snow blower is stalling, excessively vibrating or erratic when idling then you may need to clean the carburetor by hand.

If your gas snow blower has a rough idle, stalling, or even

I would also recommend adding some carburetor cleaner to the fuel in the gas tank.

4. Check Your Spark Plugs

Remember that spark plug that you took out earlier? Check it out. If it’s just slightly dirty then you can clean the spark plug. However, it’s really dirty and worn I would recommend you replace the spark plug since they are generally not expensive.

5. Check the Linkages

This is our last gas-exclusive tip. Inspect the linkages to ensure that the snow blower can perform optimally. This means checking the fuel line, looking for frayed cables, or any noticeable cracks, kinks, or rust. Some things may be easy and minor repairs. However, some things may need to be totally replaced and require a trip to the hardware store or repair shop.

6. Adjust or Replace Your Scraper Bar & Snow Skids

Finally, a tip for both gas and electric snow blowers. During extreme winter season where you’re regularly using the snow blower the blades can become worn, or the scraper bar could be moved. Check these items and the snow skids to make sure that they can operate effectively. On a single-stage snow blower you’ll also want to inspect the rubber paddles.

Even in a less severe snow season, these pieces could have been impacted by something under the snow, like a large rock. So, it’s good to regularly inspect them throughout the season, especially if you notice any unusual noises.

If any pieces are damaged then replace them immediately. If worn, analyze how much life they have left and then decide if you want to replace them now or at the end of the season.

7. Check Your Snow Blower’s Tire Pressure

Cold temperatures can cause tire pressure to go down, and if your snow blower is equipped with pneumatic tires then mid-season is a good time to check them. Improper air pressure could result in a flat tire, and no one wants to deal with that during or after a snow storm. Correct air pressure can also just make your snow blower easier to push, especially if the air is low.

Consult the owners guide to find the correct psi to inflate the tires.

Final Tips for Snow Blower Maintenance

Snow blowers are expensive, but with proper maintenance they can last for years. That is my hope for you to get with my 7 snow blower maintenance tips, and prevent any mid-season hassles.

More TIA Snow Blower articles:

• Electric VS Gas Snow Blowers: Which is Better for You?
• Snow Blower VS Snow Thrower. What’s Different? Which is Better?

[Originally published February 24, 2014.]

The post 7 Snow Blower Maintenance Tips for a Mid-Season Tune-Up appeared first on Tools In Action - Power Tool Reviews.

Swap out the holiday ham for perfectly cooked ribeye steaks this Christmas. Monument Grills recipe for perfect ribeye steaks with hot butter gives your table a new, bold and buttery bite that doubles as a beautiful centerpiece meal that challenges tradition. Yes, holiday cooking can be stressful and steaks for a crowd can be intimidating. But when prepared with one of Monument Grills newest grill models, such as the Denali 605Pro or the Mesa 415BZ, quality construction and tech features, like app-integration, eliminate the guesswork for a consistent cooking experience that allows anyone to know how to grill the perfect ribeye steak.

Monument Grills was founded by a group of friends in Atlanta who believed the best memories were created around the grill. This led to a mission to build the best gas grills that brought people together. This Monument Grills ribeye recipe is guaranteed to bring everyone together this holiday season and looking forward to the holidays yet to come.

How to Grill the Perfect Ribeye Steak

What makes a great steak? To us the most important elements are the seasoning, the sear, and achieving that perfect cook throughout. This Monument Grills recipe for perfect ribeye steaks with hot butter has it all.

The step-by-step instructions and full ingredient list with measurements can be found on the Monument Grills site.

Seasoning

This ribeye recipe gets its flavor from getting double seasoned. First the steak is seasoned all over with Monument Grills Texas Beef Rub and then placed directly on the grill for seared-in flavor.

Once off the grill the steak is topped with compound butter made from a blend of softened butter, fresh chopped garlic and parsley, Monument Grills Texas Hot Pepper Sauce, and Monument Grills Texas Beef Rub. Multiple layers of flavors coat the steak as the butter melts, resulting in a flavorful and succulent steak.

Sear

A hot grill is the key to a perfect sear. This recipe calls for a 600° F preheated grill, which is easy for the Mesa 415BZ and Denali 605Pro. These grills only need 10 minutes to hit 650-700° F and burn between 62,000-78,000 BTU’s. Both grills have dedicated side burners that are perfect for searing, but the Denali 605Pro has its own built-in ceramic infrared sear burner on the grill itself.

The porcelain enameled cast iron grates also provide an even heat throughout to provide a perfect even sear and provide a natural non-stick surface to prevent your perfect ribeye from sticking to the grill.

Perfect Temperature

There are a few different ways to guess the “done-ness” of your steak, but the only way to know without cutting your steak is to check the temperature. The Denali 605Pro comes with two meat probes, perfect for this recipe, that monitor your steaks’ temperature via the Monument Grills app. No more guessing. You’ll know when your steak is cooked to your preference.

Not sure what temperature you or Uncle Eddie likes his steak? Here’s a quick steak temperature chart:

• Rare = 120° F
• Medium Rare = 130° F
• Medium = 140° F
• Medium Well = 150° F
• Well Done = 160° F

To learn more about the Denali 605Pro and Mesa 415BZ read our TIA Article: Monument Grills – A Gift Idea for this Christmas Season.

MORE Christmas Dinner Ideas

Now that you know how to grill the perfect ribeye then you might be looking for other dishes to fill your table this Christmas. Monument Grills has over 100 grilling recipes that range from meat, to seafood, and veggies. You can find sweet and savory dishes from appetizers to desserts, so there’s something to grill for everyone at Christmas dinner this year.

The post How to Grill the Perfect Ribeye Steak for Christmas Dinner appeared first on Tools In Action - Power Tool Reviews.

A few weeks ago, I was asked if I could help out with a simple “how to” series for Mother’s Day.  The idea was to come up with a simple build that could be done in a weekend and given away as a Mother’s day gift.  I thought this was a great idea and of course, I was on board.

I had remembered seeing barrel staves for sale at a Rockler that I had visited recently and that reminded me that I had a few of those left over from a job that a bar wanted me to do for them.  I know that wine barrel projects are pretty popular now, so I decided to make something simple and a little bit trendy.  The bulk of this project can be done in about an hour or two.

Supply List

• Barrel Staves
• 1/2″ dowel rod
• Danish Oil
• Wood Glue
• Polycrylic (or any other top coat product)
• Foam Brush

Tool List

• Sander
• Forstner Bits (1/2″ and 2″)
• Saw (Miter saw, table saw, bandsaw or hand saw)
• Drill (Drill Press preferably or a hand-held drill)

Instructions

The very first thing to do for this project is to pick out the two barrel staves you are going to use.  For this design, I like to use two staves of different thicknesses with the larger of the two making up the top part of the candle holder.

After you have identified your staves, it’s a good idea to give them a sanding.  This step is going to put you on the path on how your final product is going to look.  Most of the time when you sand a project, its done as one of your final steps and the point is to get as fine of a finish as possible.  With this project, you need to decide if you want this to look rustic or finely finished.  For me, I just wanted to take the red color off of the staves and keep it a little rustic looking.  The staves are made of oak and I wanted to be able to see some of the wood characteristics in my final product.

The size of this project is completely up to you.  If you want to use the full length of the barrel staves, then you won’t need to do this next step, but for me, I like to have the bottom barrel stave shorter than the top one.  In order to shorten the bottom stave, I cut a little from each end on my Ridgid table saw.  If you don’t have a table saw, you could use another type saw such as a miter saw, bandsaw, or handsaw.  Just take your time and be careful because the barrel staves have a curve to them.

After you have your pieces sanded and cut, its time to drill the holes to receive the 1/2″ sections of dowel rods.   Find the center of the barrel staves by measuring the width of the stave at both ends.  Then find the center point of each end and draw a line connecting the two points.  Since the stave is arched, you will need to use a flexible ruler or a string.

From there, find the center of the barrel stave and measure back 2 inches on both sides of the center.  This is where we will drill our holes with a 1/2″ Forstner bit.

Next, you will need to cut two pieces of your 1/2″ dowel rod.  The length of these pieces are completely up to you, but for this project, I believe I cut them to 2-inch lengths.  Take your two pieces of dowel rods and glue them into the top and bottom barrel staves.

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After your glue has had time to set up, it’s time to cut the recesses to hold the tea lights.  Now, since the top barrel stave is curved up, you will be cutting level flat bottom holes to keep your tea lights in a safe position.  The best way to do this is with a 2-inch Forstner bit and a drill press.  Just like a couple steps before, find the center of your top barrel stave, and mark it.  Then measure in 4 inches from each end and put a mark in the center.  These will be your three holes for candles.  Be careful when cutting these out on the bandsaw.  Forstner bits work best if the center of the bit makes contact with the wood first, but in this circumstance, the outside of the bit is going to have to cut in first.  This is where it is really nice to have sharp Forstner bits.

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We are now in the final steps.  You can do just about anything you want to finish this project.  For me, I like to use Danish oil on projects like this.  Its super simple to use and I like how it makes rustic projects look.  Just wipe it on, let it soak in for about 15 minutes and if you want, add another coat.

At this point, you could call it done if this look is what you want.  I wanted to give this project a little bit of shine, so I added three coats of Polycrylic Clear Matte finish to it.  Before adding a top coat Danish oil, its recommended to let the Danish oil dry for three days.  So, if you want to be done in a weekend, you will need to skip this last step.

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Conclusion

I really enjoyed this project.  Mostly because of speed at which it can be completed.  I’ve gotten quite a few compliments on this build and may have to make some more in the future to fill requests.  Ironically, my wife is not a fan of the look and this project is going to end up going to someone else.

If you decide to try this project, I would love to see how it turns out for you.  Go over to the Toos In Action forum and share some pictures of it.

The post How to Build a Wine Barrel Stave Tea Light Candle Holder appeared first on Tools In Action - Power Tool Reviews.

For our next Mother’s Day project idea, we are going to make a gift that all mothers would love to have…… a custom hand built cutting board.  I’ve been making cutting boards for quite a few years now and every board I make is unique.  I love making cutting boards because it’s a very simple build that yields beautiful results.  So let check out How to Make a Cutting Board.

In this build, I’m going to show you the way I make a cutting board and in case you don’t have the same tools as I am using, I will give you some ideas on what tools you can use as a substitute.  Like I said before, I’ve been making these for years and have made these same type boards using many different tools.

Design 

Every board I make tends to be right around 1″ to 1-1/4″ thick by around 16″ long by around 12″ wide.  I typically start off my project on the larger size to give me some wiggle room in case I make a mistake or find a flaw in the wood.  I can always go smaller with my work.

Choosing the right wood for the project is important.  The best choices for this are domestic hardwoods like walnut, maple, cherry, and ash.  Red Oak is the one hardwood I stay away from with cutting boards.  I don’t recommend using red oak because it is so porous.  To really make my boards stand out, I like to sprinkle in some exotic hardwood with unique colors and patterns such as purple heart.  Purple heart can be a bit expensive compared to domestic hardwoods and is by no means necessary.

Supply List

• Mineral Oil
• waterproof wood glue (titebond 3)
• orbital sanding pads up to 220 grit
• hardwoods

Tools Needed

• Miter Saw
• Table Saw
• Random Orbit Sander
• Thickness Planer
• Drum Sander  (can substitute belt sander or hand planer)
• Clamps (parallel, pipe, or bar clamps)
• Jointer
• Router

Instructions

I typically begin by cutting my hardwood stock to 16″ lengths.  I do this first because it helps me keep everything lined up in the end.  If you don’t have a drum sander, you might want to consider keeping at least a few pieces about 4 inches longer than the rest.  This will help eliminate snipe from your thickness planer. 

I like to make sure all of my boards have a uniform thickness so I run them through the thickness planer.  I’ve done this in the past where the boards looked uniform in thickness but were not.  So to prevent any issues, I just run all of the boards I am using.

If you end up with some snipe from the thickness planer, you can get rid of it by running it through a drum sander or by using a random orbit sander.  You will want to get rid of the snipe because the face of the board is going to be the side you glue up later on and this ridge could cause cracks between the boards during glue up.

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There is one more step left in prepping our wood.  We need to have at least one straight edge to ride on the table saw fence.  If you buy your wood from a big box store, chances are, you can skip this step.  A good deal of the high wood prices in these stores is due to the finished edges and faces.

Our next step is going to be cutting all of the boards into 1-1/4″ strips  These strips make up the initial thickness of your cutting board.  I like to keep the pieces from every individual board stacked separately.  This way I know when I pick a piece up from a stack, it will be the same thickness, have the same grain pattern and color.

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Now in order to create some really interesting thin strips on my boards, I like to take the 1-1/4″ strips of wood, stand them up on the table saw and cut really thin strip.  Since I have my blade up over 1-1/4″ in height and I want to make sure I have consistent uniform cuts, I am using a thin rip table saw jig.  After each cut, I just move the fence until the piece of wood hits the bearing on the jig.  To my knowledge, this is the safest way to cut thin strips on a table saw.

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After you have all of your strips cut, now its time to have fun.  Play around with the different colors and sizes until you find a pattern you like.  Then role every strip, except the for the last one to the left 90 degrees.  You will then cover each of the pieces that were rolled over with glue.  Roll each piece back to its original orientation and then clamp up.

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After you glue has dried, this is the worst your project is going to look.  I like to run my boards through the thickness planer to remove all of the glue on the surface of the board and to flatten it out.  Of course, my next step from here is to the drum sander, where I use 150 grit paper.  Just as before, if you don’t have a drum sander you can do this task with a belt sander or a random orbit sander.

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To clean up the ends of the cutting board, I go to the miter saw and trim a little bit off all of the strips.

To give the cutting boards a softer feel, I like to use a round off bit on all of the edges.  Here I’m using a router table with a 3/8″ round off top bearing bit, but you can also use a handheld router as well.

Now, this next step is completely optional.  I have a lot of people request juice grooves.  These take a little time to set up but it is a fairly simple task if you want to try it.  You will need to create a simple jig where your router base rides along an edge and the cutting board is held snugly in place.  You will want to use a cove core router bit and the key to getting good results is to move the router bit down a little at a time.  Don’t try to take off the entire depth in one pass, you won’t like the results.

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Now comes the sanding.  There are three things you will need to sand.  First, you will want to work on the juice groove and I’ve found rubber contour sanding grips work really well for this task.  You will also want to sand the face and edges to 220 grit.

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At this point, the build is complete and all there is left to do is condition your board.  There are several ways to condition a cutting board, but I’ve found the most simple way to do this is with mineral oil.  All you need to do is pour some mineral oil on the board and spread it so the entire board is covered.  The mineral oil soaks into the board keeping them from drying out and cracking.  The mineral oil also fights against bacteria growth and aids in digestion.

To make sure the cutting board gets an adequate amount of mineral oil soaked in, I like to keep my boards in a mineral oil bath overnight.  This only makes sense because I make quite a few boards.  If you are only going to make one or two, then applying the oil with a rag is much more cost-effective.

Board Maintenance

If you want the cutting boards to keep from getting dried out, you will want to periodically coat the cutting board in mineral oil.  There is a rule of thumb for conditioning and maintaining a cutting board and it is as follows.

1. Once a day for a week,
2. Once a week for a month,
3. Once a month for a year,
4. Once every year

Also, you won’t want to clean these cutting boards in the dish washer……soap and water hand cleaning only.  These are good things to tell the person who is going to receive the cutting board.

Conclusion

Cutting board builds are a quick, easy and a lot of fun.  I’ve made about a hundred cutting boards so far and none of them are exactly alike.  I’m always trying to come up with unique looks.

If you haven’t tried to make a cutting board yet, go for it.  I’m sure you will be pleased with the reaction you get after giving it your mother or wife on Mother’s Day.

The post How to Make a Cutting Board appeared first on Tools In Action - Power Tool Reviews.

For our first tutorial in the Mothers Day Series, we are going to start with a fresh take on a DIY planter. When I started creating different concepts I considered the common gifts you see for Mother’s Day, one of which is flowers. We all love fresh flowers but the idea of them lasting longer than a week is appealing. Originally I was designing a planter box that would go on a porch but I just didn’t think it was quite unique enough. What I love about this one is that the added chalkboard element creates a bit of a whimsy and made the ability to personalize it all the better. So let’s get started on the Hanging Planter with Chalkboard Tutorial!

Design

Each thing I make starts with a sketch, usually like this with a million messy notes. I do want to say, that I am not an artist! Often times I’ll change the idea completely or make adjustments that make it more structurally sound. The end result of this project stayed pretty close, as you can see here. Another element I kept in mind while I designed this was structure. The interior frame is structurally the most important, and keeping it simple with a basic rectangle simplifies lining it up and keeping it square. It is more difficult to have tops and bottoms that are angled and side supports off the edge and keeps it level. Plus, I like the aesthetic of stacked wood, especially when working with 2X4s.

Supply list

• 3 2X4 8 foot pine boards ($3.52 X 3)
• 1 2X6 ten-foot pine board ($6.05)
• Hook for the basket- I used ($1.18)
• Chalkboard material cut to size  ($9.99)
• Orbital Sanding Pads- 80 and 120 grit
• Wood Glue
• Stain and Sealer of choice
• Shop towels
• Measuring supplies- tape measure, square and pencil
• Small chip brush
• Kreg 2.5 inch screws- 16 total

Tools Needed

• Finish Nailer with 2.5 inch nails
• Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
• Miter Saw or a miter box with a handsaw
• Orbital Sander
• Corner clamps or trigger/bar clamps with a corner squared support to level from
• Standard Drill Bit
• Hand Drill

Cut List

• 2-2X4 at 36 inches
• 3-2X4 at 20 inches
• 1-2X4 at 27.5 inches, 30-degree angle on edges
• 1-2X6 at 27.5 inches, 30-degree angle on edges
• 2- 2X4 at 8 inches with 30-degree angles on edges
• 1-2X4 at 6 inches
• 2-2X4 at 4 inches
• 2-2X4 at 10 inches with 45-degree angles on edge
• Cut Chalkboard material to 5.5 X 20 inches
• Instructions

I began by cutting the interior frame. This consists of 2 2X4 at 36 inches and 3 2X4 pieces at 20 inches.

I drilled pocket holes into the 20-inch pieces using my Kreg K-4. Always be sure to adjust the bit and depth on your Kreg jig based on the size stock you are using.

At this stage, I always sand the cut boards using the 80-grit sanding nets from Diablo before I assemble them. Sanding nets work the same as sanding discs but allow for longer use and quicker sanding, with less propensity for clogging.  Sanding also happens once the assembly is complete, but doing a light sand as you go prevents any missed corners later.

You want the pocket holes all facing down, generally, you would place them all facing in on a frame. However, because we are putting a piece on the bottom doing it this way allows for less exposed holes.

I then clamp the corners using a 90-degree corner clamp. This one is by Bessey.

There are a lot of ways to do this and if you don’t have clamps my best advice is to use trigger clamps against a square edge, but honestly, patience is the key with angle joining.

For the centerboard, which will hold the screw for the basket and above it will be the chalkboard, I used a scrap of 2X6 for proper spacing and to keep it level.

I next cut the top and bottom, one 2X4 at 27.5 inches and one 2X6 at 27.5 inches. These are cut at 30 degrees and I always measure from the longest side. I use my miter saw for this as well, but if you don’t have one you can always use a miter box with a hand saw.

I start by flipping the piece on its top and do the bottom 2X6 first. The long side will be facing up, the short side will attach to the top of the frame. Using trigger clamps and wood glue I secure and center the top piece, being sure it is centered ( there will be about a 1.25-inch overhang on either side).

Using my Ryobi Cordless Angled Finish Nailer with 2-inch nails to reinforce the bond. Once the nails are in you can remove the clamps, as they are used purely to prevent shifting while you attach the piece.

You will do the exact same for the top 2X4 as well, with the long side facing up. (Again, a 1.25-inch overhang).

This is what the piece should look like at this point.

Now for what I call Fancy Feet. These are optional, and I added them more for visual interest, but feel free to adjust the design however you want.  You will cut 2 2X4 pieces at 8 inches with 30-degree angles and one at 6 inches for a center support.

Attaching the feet is very similar to the top and bottom of the frame, you want to center the feet on the 2X6. I spaced them in slightly from the edge to be in line with the frame. This is an element you can play around with a lot to get the look you want.

I apply glue and clamp while I nail it in using the same Ryobi Cordless Angled Finish Nailer to secure them.

The center support should be centered between the two feet and attached the same using wood glue and a few finish nails.

Next, we need to add a support for the chalkboard to attach to. I used 2 4-inch 2X4 pieces attached using pocket holes.

You can always attach something like a scrap 2X2 to the center support on the frame using nails as well. Its all a matter of preference.

The last step prior to finishing is attaching the interior angled pieces. While these do add some structural support, I added them more for visual interest. These will measure 10 inches, cut at 45-degrees.

These are attached using finish nails as well as wood glue, but some may prefer brad nails for a smaller gauge.

These require a bit of finesse to keep them perfectly squared so take your time in attaching them. you want to make sure they are spaced correctly and centered. the center gap is ___ inches. We want to leave ample room to attach the hook later.

Finishing-

Once the piece is assembled you can choose to fill the pocket holes. Generally, I use plugs or wood filler but I chose to leave mine exposed since they weren’t easily seen but its a matter of preference.

You now want to go over the whole piece lightly with 120-grit sandpaper and an orbital sander. This Dewalt has been my companion for years! How much sanding you do is really a matter of preference. Since Pine tends to drink stain, I think its always important to smooth it out a bit, but I wouldn’t go too crazy because it is an outdoor piece.

Next, you want to apply the stain. I prefer Minwax oil-based stains over really any others for workability but any stain will do. I am playing around with a few other brands so I will report back if this opinion changes! I just used some I had on hand which was Minwax Espresso. There are dozens of ways to apply stains such as staining pads or brushes, or towels. I personally use shop towels with gloves on.

Once your stain has set, your last step is sealing. I have a small spray gun called a Critter that I love to apply sealer with. For this, since the area I will be putting this is exposed to the elements, I used Helmsman spar urethane in Satin. If you don’t have a sprayer, I would recommend wipe on poly or using a brush to apply polyurethane or something similar. It really is a matter of preference and where the piece is going to go.

To hang the basket I used this hook.

First drilling into the center 2X4. To ensure a tight fit, I always use a slightly smaller bit and work the screw in slowly. I inserted the hook about an inch in.

The next step is attaching the chalkboard. I used premade chalkboard material that is readily available at Home Depot. I trimmed it on my table saw to 5.5 inches, and trimmed it to 20 inches to fit perfectly in between the top and middle support of the frame.

I used wood glue and ran a few pin nails into it as well using my Ryobi Cordless Pin Nailer. This is optional, you can also clamp it. An alternative that would work great for the wood glue here is any sort of epoxy or product like liquid nails. Be sure to let the glue set.

The finish line is here!

Next, hang a flowering basket and get the kiddos in on a sweet message for their Mom and you’re done!

Conclusion

This project was a lot of fun to make, and I think it has a lot of potential for personalization to suit your style! This is an easy and fun build, great for a beginner but still fun no matter what your experience level is.  Remember you know the recipient best, so make the idea your own! Don’t forget to use the hashtag #TIAcrew and share with us your projects!

Tips and Tricks

I don’t mind the few exposed nail heads on the top, but if this bothers you, you can allow the glue to dry and skip nailing it. Nailing saves you time, and the few small nail heads didn’t bother me for this project. You can also countersink and patch the holes.

Insert the pocket hole screws slowly, going to fast is a sure way to change the angle of the joint. If the joints aren’t set correctly when you attach the Kreg screws you will absolutely knock it off center. You can also add wood glue to the joints to add security but if done correctly the pocket holes provide a lot of strength.

I will let you in on a bit of a secret, I keep staining ultra simple. For me, I use a shop staple, disposable shop towels. These work the best at being able to control the penetration and are budget friendly.  I use an ultra cheap chip brush to get into tight corners or grooves and always wear gloves.

You want to stain the base first and the underside to the framing as well. I lay the piece on its side on a moving blanket. Any soft surface will do, but these are better than canvas drop cloths to me as they insulate the piece from the concrete.

You also want to take your time drilling the hole for the hook so you don’t drill right through the 2X4. You can see the hook I used was just a bit too long, but I wanted the thickness of the gauge and pickings were slim at Home Depot that day. Ultimately a dozen alternatives exist, but this one worked perfectly too!

One thing to note here is an alternative. I was a bit disappointed in the way the material cut, so an alternative if you have it is to use MDF and finish it. Chalkboard paint (not the same as chalk paint) is sold for about 4 dollars at Home Depot or Lowes. you could easily paint the MDF and it would probably give you slightly better results since you would be painting after cutting. Just be mindful of the potential for water damage if MDF is properly sealed.

Remember if you don’t have a Table Saw you can also have the chalkboard material cut at Home Depot.

One thing I love to do on homemade pieces like this is to add a signature or special note to the project somewhere. The back of the chalkboard or the bottom of the piece is a perfect spot on this one. You can also use a Dremel and carve it in, that’s always super sweet!

You can skip staining and opt for paint as well, its all a matter of preference!

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